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LED flood light is easy to break
LED flood light series, the most likely cause of damage is generally: lamp dead light and power supply burned, and the two causes of damage, in addition to the material itself, in normal use, the biggest possibility is water seepage, Where does the water come from?
There are three places:
First, the outer casing has pinholes, but the naked eye can not find it, the floodlights only carry out water spray detection, but this reason is less, no key analysis;
Second, there is a gap between the upper and lower covers of the outer casing, which is related to the process and assembly of the outer casing. Except for the outer casing itself, the sealing ring must be installed in place during assembly, and the upper and lower cover screws are locked;
Third, the water seepage from the outlet hole, this is the majority of our manufacturers agree, the reason is that the outlet hole screw is not locked, the outlet wire diameter is fine, the internal seal is not done well, the installation process is too strong to pull the outlet, causing the outlet to loosen The outlet sealant loses its sealing function. After the water seepage from the outlet hole, the water enters the drive interior through the core, and enters the periphery of the lamp bead body, causing the drive to burn out and enter the periphery of the lamp bead, causing some of the lamp bead to be short-circuited, thereby forming an overloaded burnt lamp. At the same time, it will also electrolyze the lamp beads to electrolyze, etc., please refer to the following figure:
LED flood light series, the most likely cause of damage is generally: lamp dead light and power supply burned, and the two causes of damage, in addition to the material itself, in normal use, the biggest possibility is water seepage, Where does the water come from?
There are three places:
First, the outer casing has pinholes, but the naked eye can not find it, the floodlights only carry out water spray detection, but this reason is less, no key analysis;
Second, there is a gap between the upper and lower covers of the outer casing, which is related to the process and assembly of the outer casing. Except for the outer casing itself, the sealing ring must be installed in place during assembly, and the upper and lower cover screws are locked;
Third, the water seepage from the outlet hole, this is the majority of our manufacturers agree, the reason is that the outlet hole screw is not locked, the outlet wire diameter is fine, the internal seal is not done well, the installation process is too strong to pull the outlet, causing the outlet to loosen The outlet sealant loses its sealing function. After the water seepage from the outlet hole, the water enters the drive interior through the core, and enters the periphery of the lamp bead body, causing the drive to burn out and enter the periphery of the lamp bead, causing some of the lamp bead to be short-circuited, thereby forming an overloaded burnt lamp. At the same time, it will also electrolyze the lamp beads to electrolyze, etc., please refer to the following figure:
Inside the base
In addition to seeping water from the outlet hole, the cover may leak water after being exposed to the sun and rain. After the cover is infiltrated, it may directly enter the periphery of the lamp bead. How to make this part? I believe that everyone knows that the lamp beads under the cover are first installed with lens holders and then filled with waterproof glue. Here is a brief explanation of the problems that need to be paid attention to in this step. First, it is recommended to use a conjoined lens (this is the water after the cover is infiltrated). Can not enter the periphery of the lamp bead, but if the quality of the black potting glue above is not good, it may leak water for a long time, so the potting glue is recommended to buy better, the density is larger); in order to achieve good heat dissipation, it needs to be A layer of heat-dissipating silicone grease is evenly applied between the aluminum substrate and the outer casing (it is recommended to use a heat dissipation coefficient of 1.5 or more); if the silicone grease is used, if the contact between the plate and the outer casing is not good, the effect will not be good, and the aluminum substrate and the outer casing need to be screwed. Locking; Before installing the lens holder, you need to make 705 glue in the white circle below to seal the lamp bead and the fixing bracket. It must be sealed here. If it is not continued, it will enter the inside of the bracket and be immersed in the lamp bead body. On the top, the thickness of the black rubber is maintained at 5 to 7 mm, and the height of the bracket is generally 14 mm; see the figure below.
Potting precautions
Unfilled semi-finished products
When filling the black glue, be sure to pay attention to it. Do not spill it on the lamp body or the lens. If the color of the glue is not the same as the color of the bracket, do not sprinkle the glue on the bracket. The glue should not be too thick or too thin to keep at 5 ~7MM thick is OK, (must adjust the glue must be in proportion, A and B agent ratio can not be adjusted, etc., before mixing, need to stir the A and B agents evenly, stir well after mixing, so that the AB agent fully reacts After the glue is dry, clean the lens holder, cover the glass, and then lock the upper cover. The upper cover seal ring needs to be in place. At the same time, the screw needs to be locked. The electric batch torque is adjusted to 10~12 kg force. There are gaps. See the figure below for details:
See the figure below for the fixing screws on the outside. For the screws that are not tightly locked, you must change the screws that are locked. If it is not fastened, it is easy to leak water. Even if the waterproofing is done well, it will seep. Affect the light efficiency of the product, water inside will form water vapor or even water droplets, affecting the luminous effect, the luminous intensity will be weak, and it may also produce glare, refraction and other adverse reactions. The inlet and outlet fixing screws are shown in the figure below:
Finally, the product aging test is required before cleaning and packaging. The specific test steps are as follows: 1. The mains are constantly on for 2 to 4 hours; 2. The 265 plus or minus 5V high impact test is 60 plus or minus 10 minutes; the third and third seconds are off test 500. Positive and negative 50 times; 4, the city power is always bright 60 plus 10 minutes.
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